…in the same vein.

What is the absolutely craziest thing you’ve ever done that you survived?

Ours was probably undertaking a 4000 gallon pond dig (most of the back yard) with a Mantis tiller. But outside of that—probably deciding in my 6th decade and Jane’s 5th to take up ice skating. Hey, it was safer than downhill skiing. We not only decided on ice skating, we decided on figure skating, and it’s been the absolute best exercise in the world. Talk about fine motor control.

Mine, somewhat back, was running out of money in Athens, in company with a 65 year old traveling companion, with a week to go before our prepaid plane flight. We had to move out of the hotel we were in, we went to the Plaka district, and tried to get help from the American embassy, who were no help at all, and wouldn’t even listen to our situation. Then we set about a campaign of trying to get arrested so the American embassy would have to help us. But all the Greek people were so kind to us, one even cashing a personal check from America on her account, that we couldn’t cheat them. (Defrauding an innkeeper was our planned route to the pokey.)

Well, nothing worked. On one night, we went to the Greek theater, about a 50 cent ticket, and got lost, and hiked several miles into the warehouse district and back alleys. When we came out into a questionable neon-lit area, where there was at least life, we had to spend money on a taxi to get home, and directed the taxi driver the wrong way down a major boulevard to get there. But it was 3 am.

We finally decided Athens was too expensive, and we found a hotel in the village that Thebes now is, for much cheaper. So we caught a bus, which also contained a woman with a young goat, and headed for Thebes. A 10 cent taxi would take you from the bus station up to the top of the hill once you got there. And our hotel was, well, for 2.00 a night, you couldn’t complain. We had to be there for three days.

It was during the junta, so the presence of two strangers in town aroused the interest of the local military police, who were trying to find out who we were and what we were taking pictures of, and I understand enough modern Greek to know that, in the restaurant, the two uniformed guys were asking about us. I was really tempted to say, in Greek, “Hi, there. Can I help you?” but wisely kept my mouth shut. We’d just come from Athens, where I had to snatch Audrey out of the way of a careening truckload of soldiers in riot gear, who were bound for the neighboring university, where there was quite a fracas going on, and you could get arrested for expressing an opinion. It was literally illegal to talk politics even in your house.

So we had no good situation in Thebes, either. But we made the acquaintance of a couple of Brits who were the local teachers, and they knew a German guy who was running a spinning-mill in the village. And they knew where there were ancient ruins, and the German guy had a car. He proved interesting: he’d been on one side of WWII, in the German army on the Russian campaign, and had  a circular dent in his forehead which had been put there by a mule which was hauling gear on that ill-fated advance. He hated mules, he said. The elder Brit had been in the RAF. Audrey’s students had been in the Italian campaign on the Allied side. So there we all sat, exchanging views on WWII, in a Theban cafe.

And then we set off with two absolute strangers to see the ruins, which were miles out in the country, an undeveloped site, in a farmer’s field, probably flattened when Alexander the Great had a snit with the Greeks—he is alleged to have destroyed the town, and left standing only one house, that of Pindar the poet, whom he admired, to show his control over his troops. (I’m sure Pindar wasn’t grateful.) And he ordered the release of a woman who’d attacked his soldiers while defending her home. He was funny like that.

At any rate, this place was flattened, right down to potsherds. We wandered about, mapping out buildings. And then we saw something coming. A pack of dogs.

Well, we knew we were trespassing. We ran for the car, the elder Brit and I helping Audrey, who didn’t run fast, and the younger Brit sprinting for dear life. It was twilight. The lead dog was a white shepherd type, so he was easy to see. There were about 10 others. The German guy got to the car, got in and slammed the door. The younger Brit opened the doors for us and got in. The elder Brit and I threw Audrey into the middle back seat. Then the elder Brit and I did an ‘after you, Alphonse,’ routine as the pack closed in. Finally he shoved me hard into the front seat, he dived into the back, we slammed the doors, and the white dog hit my window full-on. The whole pack was clawing at the car and the German guy started up and we got out of there.

The 2 archaeologists that had started to excavate had died: they drank the local water. Since that was an area of Greece I had once been very interested in going into, in archaeology, I considered that an omen.

And I read when we finally got back to Athens, that a dog pack near Thebes had put several people in the hospital, two in critical condition.

Yeah. I bet.