A British reader pointed out—Thanksgiving is kind of an anomaly among holidays. And Americans love holidays. Halloween has gone from kids trick or treating to adults dressing up and going about to their favorite pubs or parties, decorating in orange lights—black ones still elude the determined! —doing their front yards up with filmy spiderwebs and silly tombstones, not to mention jack o’ lanterns. And then Thanksgiving follows it a month later and kicks off the Serious Holiday season, toward solemn Christmas and blowout New Year’s. Since Americans actually have to get some work done, they’ve somehow neglected to connect New Year’s to Valentine’s Day, but give us another few decades.

What is Thanksgiving? In origin, it’s a harvest feast, and commemorated survival. It’s gathered legends of Native American assistance (there was,) celebrates New World foods (squash, corn, and turkey) and trappings of Victorian sleighs and rides (during the last of the Little Ice Age) to Grandma’s house over snowcovered roads. Traditionally, it’s the time for the reigning matriarch to hold a really big dinner for all her offspring at once, so in-laws and cousins meet, probably for the only time that year, sometimes alternates between ‘his’ mother and ‘her’ mother’s house. Lately granddad and the guys have added (besides the football game on telly) the ritual attempt to fast-cook an entire turkey in a hot oil deep-frier in (hopefully) the driveway of the grandparental home—keeping fire companies on duty through the holiday.

It’s a time in which if you haven’t got a huge family feed, or sometimes if you do, you invite friends to get together: restaurants and bars, jails, and hospitals switch their menus to include the traditional fare, and people who are out of touch call each other.

It’s not a religious or political holiday, so much as it’s a beginning-of-winter, we’ve survived, let’s get family together sort of holiday, celebrated around a long table, or a tv football game or event (I kid thee not) —the latest being the efforts of otherwise sane people to fling innocent pumpkins as far as possible with a mediaeval catapult; or sometimes in a restaurant, with memories or at least imaginations of the big Dinners. It’s a time to take a second thought, refocus, and be appreciative of the good things we have.

So that’s what we do.