It’s quite a construction. I’m from the Great Plains, and was not real sympathetic to the Big Dams. Living up here, I’ve changed opinions.
What I remain sad about is the effect on native peoples and the salmon fisheries closely tied to them. I can say, however, that the native peoples have maintained their individual cultures, have found inventive ways—the casinos, etc—that provide finance, and while it was a terrible thing for their way of life, they do carry on in their individual identities, and have a respected voice in local life. It’s a case of —wish the land hadn’t been taken, wish the salmon still ran free in the Columbia, but— granted the direction of modern civilization, worse could have happened, worse power sources, worse industries, worse pollution.

And where the dam is sited, which is on the course of an ancient flood, it’s not as disruptive as it could have been: Lake Roosevelt, which holds water backed up, is more like a broadened river clear to Canada and into it, rather than a big fat lake spreading outward.

The surrounding area was pretty well high plains desert and still is in places. The water gets distributed upward by pumps into a canal and lake that supply water to irrigation, creating a massively fertile farmland, orchards, etc, and the power the dam generates reaches all over the NW, and down to California, with no smokestacks, no air pollution from the power source itself. And fierce laws likewise went into place to protect the salmon in natural streams. You cannot mess with those or you are in serious trouble. The sky stays blue, and the power comes by water running downhill. The power is also distributed very widely—and keeps rates low. It’s one of the cleaner means of doing several massive jobs—food and power at once. A day’s drive away, in Wyoming, sits a coalfired power plant that is fed by some of the longest trains I have ever seen on the rails, carrying coal to that plant. It is, for what it is, not belching black smoke. It seems to emit steam. But that’s a lot of mining, a lot of coal. I’d like to know how that one operates. But I think I prefer taking advantage of gravity.

I still have my reservations about Hoover Dam, which spends an awful lot of energy toward the lights of Las Vegas, about which I also have reservations, but Grand Coulee has done pretty ‘dam’ well for a project built by the relief efforts of the Great Depression, and it STILL has expansion capability: the newest bank of its turbines produces 60% of the energy the dam outputs. If they someday DO replace the two original arrays of turbines, it could be more productive than it is.

It’s not the only power-producing dam in the system. There are dams on the Snake as well and on some other rivers of which I don’t know the names. But the forests up here still stand and the salmon still exist, alongside major cities, so as civilization goes, it sits easier on the landscape than some solutions.

Windmills are also blossoming up here, along ridges that get a lot of wind, which is another way of using what flows naturally. And believe me, when wind blows across the Palouse, or down the Columbia Gorge, it is potent.

Atomic energy hasn’t fared so well here: Washington, volcanically active, and with quakes, has the Hanford reactors, which figured in early atomic power development. Notoriously so. It’s old, it was where they learned a lot of things they now know better than to do, and it’s a mess. There are local jokes about glowing sagebrush and strange rabbits, and keeping Hanford safe is kind of an ongoing effort—a lot of cleanup to do there. So it was not cost-effective, especially in the mop-up.

An interesting trip. I will say—don’t eat IN Grand Coulee township: eat on the south side of the dam. Or eat beforehand. Or pack a picnic lunch. But it is an interesting visit.